Thursday, December 17, 2015

Thip Khao

Continuing my journey of eating as many ethnic cuisines as possible, I discover the food of Laos.  Now I've had Northeastern Thai food, which is closely related to Lao cooking.  Knowing what Thai food is, I was curious to know if it is similar to Lao.  Since Thai food is popular for its clean flavors and tastes, my guess would have been that Lao would not be as clean.  Honestly, this is a blank slate for me.

I found this place while looking for a place for dinner in Columbia Heights.  Unlike much of DC, where the restaurant scene has been whitewashed, this neighborhood has a strong multicultural vibe to it despite ongoing gentrification.  There lots of small ethnic eateries ranging from Caribbean to Mexican taquerias.  Thip Khao is a relative newcomer catering to a more upscale clientele while being generally casual.  Man I hate to use the word "upscale" as this place isn't a "fancy restaurant". It just so happens to be situated in a mixed use development, the kind of place you would see in a gentrifying neighborhood.


The experience in this restaurant is very unique.  When you order an entree, you get a complimentary plate of condiments such as chili paste and raw vegetables along with a basket of red sticky rice.  I didn't realize this until after I ate the rice, but you grab some of the rice with your right hand, pinch down in the middle to create a scoop which you can pick up the some of the entree with.

So let's take a seat and enjoy the show.

Sakoo Yadsai

An appetizer of tapioca balls filled radish and topped with peanuts and cilantro comes highly recommended.  It reminds me of something my family makes during Chinese New Year, except that they are served in a soup.

Tam Muk Houng (Green Papaya Salad)

I guess you can't get away from the classic green papaya salad.  The restaurant serves 2 versions: Lao and Thai.  Of course, I went with the Lao version.  This contains shredded papaya, cherry tomatoes, lime, chilies, and shrimp paste.  There is a faint but noticeable putridness to it coming from the shrimp paste.  This paste made from shrimp that is left to dry out the hot sun in humid weather.

It brought back memories of the time I went to the fishing villages on the outskirts of Hong Kong.  Walking up to some of the homes, I remember getting a good whiff of the stuff sitting in bamboo trays.  The best way for me to describe it is vomit with spices.  Now if that doesn't make you hungry, I don't know what will.

Lao Ceviche

This is a salad of sorts with a refreshing mix of tilapia, toasted rice powder, mint, basil, and chilies.  Despite the cooling perception of the dish, it's actually quite spicy.  The heat of the chilies spiked up my endorphins, causing me to scarf down the entire thing while barely touching the rice.  Oops.  There wasn't going to be enough to help anyways.  It's kind of like koi pla but I guess ceviche is easier to recognize. 


Avocado Sticky Rice

After having all that spicy food during my mouth, it's time to wash it down with the sweets.  And to do that is some sticky rice with warm coconut milk and mashed avocado.  I didn't think that avocado would work as a dessert.  But it's mild and smooth, so it works with the milk and rice, creating a filling dessert.  And no, avocados don't grow in Laos or Asia for that matter, but they are very commonly eaten across parts of the continent.

It's great to have something that is distinguishable from the so called "Thai" restaurants that dot the area.  The menu is diverse with a variety of dishes ranging from standard curries and noodles to rustic "jungle" flavors.  They even serve Asian carp in a variety of ways.  This is an invasive species doing havoc to the Potomac River and its ecosystem.  Even though it may seem like another pretentious restaurant, Thip Khao is doing a great service to the community.  That and serving great food.

3462 14th St NW
Washington, DC 20010



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