Thursday, February 20, 2014

Sichuan Jin River

Tucked away in the back of an old, unattractive office building in Rockville lies one of the few places around that serves authentic cuisine from Sichuan Province, China.  This cuisine is known for dishes that are so spicy, it would make your mouth go numb.  This sensation is called "mala." The pain felt from the numbness leads to the release of endorphins in your body. This creates a natural high, causing the eater to want more of the food.  The first outsiders to try this cuisine thought that the food was laced with opium.  But unfortunately or fortunately (depending on your preference), none of the spicy dishes here will go that far.

This place may be seen from Rockville Pike, but is commonly passed over with the modern and trendy Town Square right across the street.  It's a brown brick building with a brown roof.  The menu here is quite large.  There is a variety of cold and hot appetizers, traditional dishes, home style dishes, and for some reason, Americanized dishes.  I went with a friend to sample some classic Sichuan dishes.

Dan Dan Noodles

To start off, there was a bowl noodles with pork in a sauce consisting of chili oil, Sichuan peppercorns, and sesame paste.  The sesame paste actually moderates the spiciness of the dish, which I guess probably a way to cater to the Western palate.  The traditional version has the noodles doused in a bright red sauce.

String Beans with Yacai

The green beans are dry fried with a specialty food unique to Sichuan Province.  Yacai is a part of the stem of the mustard plant that is salt pickled.  Because it's really salty, only a little bit is needed to flavor the dish.  I mean, who wants to eat straight salt.  And no, this isn't spicy, but it can be.

Double Cooked Pork

Pork belly gets cooked by itself before being stir fried with chilies, scallions, onions, peppers, and cabbage.  It's fatty and delicious.  I have had this dish before, but this version contains fried bread.  It's the sauce mop as well the croutons of the dish.  Personally, I don't think this was necessary just because the meal already comes with rice, which also mops up the sauce and intense flavor.  I also don't like croutons.

Mapo Tofu

This is basically tofu and some minced pork in a sauce made with spicy bean paste, chili flakes, garlic, and chili oil.  The sauce is modestly spicy but very fragrant.  Like many of the served here, the heat has been tapered down to a tolerable level.  For me, a little more heat would be alright.

Even though the taste is not as authentic as you would get in China, these dishes themselves are.  It's a great way to immerse yourself into a different style of Chinese cuisine.  I just wish that they would be able to pull all the stops to ensure the most authentic experience.  I mean, Rockville has a huge Chinese population, who would expect or prefer the numbing spiciness in the applicable dishes.  Nevertheless, I still think Jin River is an important restaurant as one can get a different taste of Chinese food.  China is a very diverse and country with many regional cuisines and Sichuanese is among the greatest of them.

Sichuan Jin River
410 Hungerford Dr.
Rockville, MD 20850

Tuesday, February 11, 2014

Hong Kong Seafood Garden

In the shadows of the Strip on Spring Mountain Road lies another part of Vegas very few people see: Chinatown.  I bet you didn't know about it.  It's a bit of a dicey place with Asian business and restaurants lie next.  Many of the places here are considered to be dives.  But they are certainly worth looking for.  Here, you can get a large variety of Asian food at reasonable prices.

On the first and last nights in Vegas, I went to this restaurant which, according to its name, should have some great seafood.  Well, that's true but there is a whole lot more to the menu.  So here are some of the highlights of my two visits here.

Pork and Vegetable Soup
At the start of every meal, a complementary bowl of soup is served.  It's the same for every table.  This is made with pork neck bones, dried bok choy, carrots, and ginger.  It's a clash of savory, bitter, and umami tastes.  The pork bones have plenty of meat which is falling off the bones.  

Razor Clams

I have never seen these clams this big before.  They are nearly the length of my hand.  These clams usually contain lots of sand, but these were well cleaned.  They are simply steamed and served with minced garlic and soy sauce.

Clay Pot Rice with Frog and Chinese Sausage
One kind of dish that I have seen a lot of out West is rice cooked in a clay pot.  This version contains frog meat, Chinese sausage and bacon, and shiitake mushrooms.  The waiter removes these ingredients and mixes the rice prior to serving.  The frog literally tastes like chicken.  The only difference is that the taste goes away almost instantly.

Surf Clams
Here is some more great seafood.  These surf clams are steamed, then sliced and served with glass noodles on the shell.  It's just 3 clams sliced 6 times and placed on both shells.  It's not always available, so you must check on the day or order in advance.

Spot Prawns

This is the last of the West Coast seafood that I have had.  And it's quite spectacular.  Being $33/pound, my family decides to sample just 3 large ones out of a tank at the side of the dining room.  The flesh is very sweet and briny like the ocean they once swam in.  I think they should have laid off the garlic here.  It masks the flavor of the prawns too much.

Old Water Duck
No seafood here, but a great dish nevertheless.  The duck is cooked in soy sauce called "old water."  This kind of dish originates in the Chaozhou region of Guangdong Province.  The kind of food is more rustic and not as colorful as mainline Cantonese cuisine.  Like the seafood dishes above, the ingredients speak for themselves.  In this case, it's all about the duck with some soy sauce.

This place is also open late.  And by that I mean from 11am-6am.  Yes, they are open until the crack of dawn.  So this would the perfect place for a late night snack.  I never stayed here past 9, so I don't know what kind of people would go there.  I do know that they have late night specials, which means even better value.

Hong Kong Seafood Garden
4300 W Spring Mountain Road
Unit 103, 104, 105
Las Vegas, NV 89102

Thursday, February 6, 2014

Hash House a Go Go

Usually, I don't go out for breakfast or brunch.  Maybe it's because it's all standard stuff: eggs, bacon, pancakes, waffles, sandwiches, etc.  Don't get me wrong, I like that stuff.  But, I do like some change.   Or something that I can't make at home.

Hash House specializes in what they call Midwestern farm food with a twist.  Usually, that means super-sizing the portions, or creating combinations you'd least expect.  A typical plate is about a foot long.  Another twist is that they have a full bar here that's open during restaurant hours.  You can have a Bloody Mary, a PBR, or a mimosa with your waffles.  Now that's pretty badass.  So badass that they have a pretty decent celebrity clientele here.  Neil Patrick Harris was here.  He apparently really liked the pancakes, which are the size of actual cakes.

So here is what my family and I got during our visit here.

S'mores Mocha

My sister starts things off with a giant and delectable coffee drink.  Since I don't drink coffee, I can't describe the taste, but I would definitely recommend anyone who orders those weird drinks from Starbucks to try this.  It's got actual Graham crackers, marshmallows, and fudge.  No artificial ingredients here.

Pork Tenderloin Sandwich

I'm not kidding when I say super-size.  The pork cutlet is almost the size of the plate if you place it lengthwise.  It looks like it has been hit with gamma rays, so I called it "the Incredible Pork."  Its served with onions, pickles, and ketchup on a wheat bun.  The pork is perfectly fried and surprisingly tasty, reminiscent of tonkatsu.

Tractor Driver Combo

For this plate, you get eggs, sausage or bacon, and a choice of a pancake, waffle, or french toast.  This  one has scrambled eggs, sausage links, and a bacon stuffed waffle.  So cool.

Bacon and Mashed Potato Burger

Yes, there are two strips of bacon and mashed potatoes stuffed between two patties.  Mashed potatoes in a burger, who would have thought of that?  Add the fries and you've got a potato overload.  I like the toasted brioche bun, which gives the burger a nice buttery texture.

Fried Chicken Benedict
This dish was featured on Man vs. Food on the Travel Channel a few years ago.  It's an absolute behemoth of food.  A layer cake of excess.  A showstopper.  Whatever I call it, it blows my mind how this was ever conceived.  Just look at a cross section of this thing.

It begins with griddled mashed potatoes.  The second layer consists of a buttermilk biscuit, spinach, tomatoes, fried spaghetti.  Lasts comes the sage fried chicken, which is breaded with corn flakes.  It is then topped with griddled mozzarella, scrambled eggs, and a chipotle cream sauce.  And there is some fruit on the side to lighten things up.

I have been here twice now and each time has excited me.  Not only does the come in great quantities, but also great quality.  And it's not just the food I have had, but also those of the people sitting around us.  I got see some of the ways Hash House is changing the way breakfast and brunch is made.  It could be a tower of chicken and waffles, a hot dog served with a beer in a brown bag and a side of bacon, or Snickers pancakes.  But what gives me the greatest kick is their reactions to the food.  It's the looks of shock, awe, and puzzlement.  Or the whispers of "Wow", "How can I eat this whole thing?", and "I've got breakfast, lunch, and dinner right here." I saw one large party where each person looked at each other speechless with their eyes and mouths wide open.  This is probably one of the few restaurants I have had fun eating at.

If only there was a place like this in the DC Metro area, I would go out for brunch or breakfast more often.  They seem just a little too familiar.  Washington may never change, but I'm sure that breakfast can.

Endnote:  I am aware that there are two other locations on the Strip (The Quad and Imperial Palace Hotels).  This is the original Vegas location and do not know how good the Strip locations are compared to this one.  All I know is that the first restaurant is in San Diego and they have also expanded to Chicago, Reno, Orlando, and Montville, Connecticut.

Hash House a Go Go
6800 E Sahara Ave
Las Vegas, NV 89146